needin some info.....yaesu ft-990
needin some info.....yaesu ft-990
wonderin if i can make my yaesu ft-990..proform voodoo audio....i so want the low end
Last edited by kd8oyv on Fri May 27, 2011 4:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Just about any recently made model radio - within the last 1-5 years old should be capable of ~3kc's wide. Some are better; but usually no less than 2.8kc's wide. It might not be 'Real Voodoo' that you achieve (~4-5kc's wide); but can still sound surprisingly better if you cover the basics.
Basic formula:
Start with the mic. Don't scrimp here. Budget room here for a ElectroVioce RE-20 or RE 27. Heil also makes a similar mic and is just fine. Others like to use large capsule condenser mics. Dynamic mics and condenser mics - so long as the quality is there - will get the job done. I prefer to use an MXL V69 tube/condenser mic. But I have a few dynamic mics in the arsenal as well. You get what you pay for here. Money well spent if budget allows for it. A Shure SM-58 is a $100 solution. Since the mic is very important in this whole audio chain; just don't get 'some mic' if you want the best sound.
Going thru the auxiliary mic input on the back of the radio is essential. On an Icom or Kenwood, it is found on the ACC2 plug. I'm sure that Yaesu has an equivalent too (never owned a Yaesu HF rig). The reason this is done this way, is that this input bypasses the radio's native mic preamp which will limit a wider TX freq response. Going through the ACC2 plug has no restrictions.
Because we have just bypassed the radio's preamp; we will need to use an external mic preamp. A Behringer 2200 is a cheap and simple solution; cost is about $100/new if you shop around online. You can do better; but we are talking about starting out here. The better tube mic preamps can run several 100's or even a couple 1000 dollars. The 2200 will work just fine.
An EQ and compressor are next. A parametric is EQ is preferred - IMO. But others like to use the old fashion graphic-type EQ's. They can and do pull adjacent frequencies and can create inaccuracies. Parametric EQ's can tailor the freq, width, cut, or attenuate your mic with precision. The learning curve isn't that difficult with a parametric EQ, as Google is your friend here. The Behringer DEQ2496 is another useful bang-for-buck example; new~$250/used~$130. It can even pull double-duty, as it can be configured to act as two independent devices. This will let yo use one channel for EQ; and the other for - let's say - compression. Out of one channel and back in again! EQ and compression will give you that sound you want. It will give all of the audio you are looking for after careful adjustments and some time understanding the gear.
Cable lengths should be short between rack gear; 3 ft is fine. Use a clamp-on ferrite bead on each cable in the ENTIRE audio chain - important! Keep all wiring using balanced-type cables (ground, positive, and negative XLR/ TRS connections) and use Canare or Mogami cables for best results. They have better shielding and low-oxygen copper for superior audio reproduction. Not necessary; but for the total length you need for this project, it is priced quite fair.
Making your own cable to go into the back of the radio from you rack gear - can be done by you. Or you can buy one from Julius/W2IHY. He also makes the iBox which will be the last piece of gear you will need. The iBox has an audio transformer and audio attenuation pad to adjust the final audio level into your ACC2 plug. It also has a plug on it for your PTT/TX function - which is very convenient! Julius can make custom cables for your radio, and can be found on Google when you put in his call sign.
Hopefully, my long-winded reply can get you hitting the ground running . . .
Too much information?
Basic formula:
Start with the mic. Don't scrimp here. Budget room here for a ElectroVioce RE-20 or RE 27. Heil also makes a similar mic and is just fine. Others like to use large capsule condenser mics. Dynamic mics and condenser mics - so long as the quality is there - will get the job done. I prefer to use an MXL V69 tube/condenser mic. But I have a few dynamic mics in the arsenal as well. You get what you pay for here. Money well spent if budget allows for it. A Shure SM-58 is a $100 solution. Since the mic is very important in this whole audio chain; just don't get 'some mic' if you want the best sound.
Going thru the auxiliary mic input on the back of the radio is essential. On an Icom or Kenwood, it is found on the ACC2 plug. I'm sure that Yaesu has an equivalent too (never owned a Yaesu HF rig). The reason this is done this way, is that this input bypasses the radio's native mic preamp which will limit a wider TX freq response. Going through the ACC2 plug has no restrictions.
Because we have just bypassed the radio's preamp; we will need to use an external mic preamp. A Behringer 2200 is a cheap and simple solution; cost is about $100/new if you shop around online. You can do better; but we are talking about starting out here. The better tube mic preamps can run several 100's or even a couple 1000 dollars. The 2200 will work just fine.
An EQ and compressor are next. A parametric is EQ is preferred - IMO. But others like to use the old fashion graphic-type EQ's. They can and do pull adjacent frequencies and can create inaccuracies. Parametric EQ's can tailor the freq, width, cut, or attenuate your mic with precision. The learning curve isn't that difficult with a parametric EQ, as Google is your friend here. The Behringer DEQ2496 is another useful bang-for-buck example; new~$250/used~$130. It can even pull double-duty, as it can be configured to act as two independent devices. This will let yo use one channel for EQ; and the other for - let's say - compression. Out of one channel and back in again! EQ and compression will give you that sound you want. It will give all of the audio you are looking for after careful adjustments and some time understanding the gear.
Cable lengths should be short between rack gear; 3 ft is fine. Use a clamp-on ferrite bead on each cable in the ENTIRE audio chain - important! Keep all wiring using balanced-type cables (ground, positive, and negative XLR/ TRS connections) and use Canare or Mogami cables for best results. They have better shielding and low-oxygen copper for superior audio reproduction. Not necessary; but for the total length you need for this project, it is priced quite fair.
Making your own cable to go into the back of the radio from you rack gear - can be done by you. Or you can buy one from Julius/W2IHY. He also makes the iBox which will be the last piece of gear you will need. The iBox has an audio transformer and audio attenuation pad to adjust the final audio level into your ACC2 plug. It also has a plug on it for your PTT/TX function - which is very convenient! Julius can make custom cables for your radio, and can be found on Google when you put in his call sign.
Hopefully, my long-winded reply can get you hitting the ground running . . .
Too much information?
ok sawzall ...i see what your sayin....ive thoungt that myself....but ive hit a wall.....i was talking to a friend and he was talking about changing the 2.4 filter out to the 2.8 filter from inrad...#715. that filter is meant for the ft-1000. so i wanna kno will it make much of a difference/will it work at all. the filter costs 170 bucks so i wanna know if you know or anyone else knows anything about this...to give me some ideas 
i dont know much about the IF FILTERS
i dont know much about the IF FILTERS -
Voodoo Guru
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Howdy kd8oyv,
Welcome to the Forum!
The FT-990 is very similar to the FT-1000D, but that is were our expertise fails as we have not had one here to subject to our maniacal torture.
I know there has been allot of work done to the FT-1000D for HiFi SSB on K6JRF site:
http://www.k6jrf.com/k6jrf.html
You might be able to glean some info from there.
Take Care,
Welcome to the Forum!
The FT-990 is very similar to the FT-1000D, but that is were our expertise fails as we have not had one here to subject to our maniacal torture.
I know there has been allot of work done to the FT-1000D for HiFi SSB on K6JRF site:
http://www.k6jrf.com/k6jrf.html
You might be able to glean some info from there.
Take Care,
Voodoo Guru
From Deep in the IDD of the Sub-Harmonix Realm
From Deep in the IDD of the Sub-Harmonix Realm