Could you advice where to put the RP533 in the chain? At the end before the triple-C or right after the EQ. I have the preamp RP220, and now I am waiting for the 533 coming.
Syawal
YC5SOL
Bellari RP-533 Positioning
Bellari RP-533 Positioning
Howdy Voodoo Guru-
Could you advice where to put the RP533 in the chain? At the end before the triple-C or right after the EQ. I have the preamp RP220, and now I am waiting for the 533 coming.
Syawal
YC5SOL
Could you advice where to put the RP533 in the chain? At the end before the triple-C or right after the EQ. I have the preamp RP220, and now I am waiting for the 533 coming.
Syawal
YC5SOL
-
Voodoo Guru
- VooDoo Site Admin
- Posts: 719
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 8:47 am
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Howdy!!
Howdy Syawal!!
Welcome to the Voodoo Forum.
We hope you enjoy all the garbage on here, and also the info!
Very nice equipment you have there!!!
We love Bellari, it has such nice resonance.
OK this is where we put ours and why...
We use a RP-520 Mic Pre, we only use one channel of it at very low gain, maybe 2 clicks up on the Gain and the Volume. This is to keep the room noise low and just amplify the signal enough for the Downward expander.
We then use a Aphex 622 Expander/Gate. This is used of course to get rid of the room noise between words.
We then have the RP-533 in-line.
It will amplify the signal up to line level with the first preamp.
We use heavy compression with a very slooooow release to soften and add color to the Mix.
We then use the Exciter to add those beautiful Harmonix that only this Bellari unit can give. Its like Majik.
We put the RP533 before the EQ to give it the Mix with as many Harmonix as possible.
We don't want to cut any frequencies before it goes to the RP-533,
this would prevent it from developing the Harmonix across the entire Fundamental Frequency spectrum.
We then use the HHB EQ to shape the sound wanted.
It then goes to the RP-583 for some more compression.
We also use this for softness and the tonal effects.
It also limits the gain for the input to the RP-562.
We then use the RP-562 set very modestly to give that little extra Harmonix to the shaped mix.
It then goes to the W5UDX Modified EX3200 for the Sub-Harmonix.
This unit gives you such a full rich mix by adding Harmonix and Sub-Harmonix in between Harmonix.
This is accomplished by the UDX mod and the Surround Processor on the unit.
Then We go to my Triple-C.
This does several things.
It shapes and softens the lows slightly to take the rough edge of of it.
It compresses the mids slightly.
It compresses the highs quite abit to remove the tearing and it does this so precisely that you are able to set it for maximum Frequency Separation.
This is a complicated unit and most usually give up on it and say it is a piece of crap.
But from persistence and continuous playing....you will get it!
An amazing device.
Then it goes to the last piece, the Virtualizer.
This unit is set to W5UDX settings for Plating.
It gives the mix a light airy and wet sound.
Without it the mix sounds flat.
Well, there you go, we hope this gives you some ideas to mull around in your head.
Once again Syawal, welcome to the Voodoo Forum...
Take Care,
Welcome to the Voodoo Forum.
We hope you enjoy all the garbage on here, and also the info!
Very nice equipment you have there!!!
We love Bellari, it has such nice resonance.
OK this is where we put ours and why...
We use a RP-520 Mic Pre, we only use one channel of it at very low gain, maybe 2 clicks up on the Gain and the Volume. This is to keep the room noise low and just amplify the signal enough for the Downward expander.
We then use a Aphex 622 Expander/Gate. This is used of course to get rid of the room noise between words.
We then have the RP-533 in-line.
It will amplify the signal up to line level with the first preamp.
We use heavy compression with a very slooooow release to soften and add color to the Mix.
We then use the Exciter to add those beautiful Harmonix that only this Bellari unit can give. Its like Majik.
We put the RP533 before the EQ to give it the Mix with as many Harmonix as possible.
We don't want to cut any frequencies before it goes to the RP-533,
this would prevent it from developing the Harmonix across the entire Fundamental Frequency spectrum.
We then use the HHB EQ to shape the sound wanted.
It then goes to the RP-583 for some more compression.
We also use this for softness and the tonal effects.
It also limits the gain for the input to the RP-562.
We then use the RP-562 set very modestly to give that little extra Harmonix to the shaped mix.
It then goes to the W5UDX Modified EX3200 for the Sub-Harmonix.
This unit gives you such a full rich mix by adding Harmonix and Sub-Harmonix in between Harmonix.
This is accomplished by the UDX mod and the Surround Processor on the unit.
Then We go to my Triple-C.
This does several things.
It shapes and softens the lows slightly to take the rough edge of of it.
It compresses the mids slightly.
It compresses the highs quite abit to remove the tearing and it does this so precisely that you are able to set it for maximum Frequency Separation.
This is a complicated unit and most usually give up on it and say it is a piece of crap.
But from persistence and continuous playing....you will get it!
An amazing device.
Then it goes to the last piece, the Virtualizer.
This unit is set to W5UDX settings for Plating.
It gives the mix a light airy and wet sound.
Without it the mix sounds flat.
Well, there you go, we hope this gives you some ideas to mull around in your head.
Once again Syawal, welcome to the Voodoo Forum...
Take Care,
Last edited by Voodoo Guru on Fri Sep 18, 2009 2:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Voodoo Guru
From Deep in the IDD of the Sub-Harmonix Realm
From Deep in the IDD of the Sub-Harmonix Realm
-
Voodoo Guru
- VooDoo Site Admin
- Posts: 719
- Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 8:47 am
- Location: Down there on the right...
Waiting??
Its worth the wait!
Truly, these things are awesome.
There are a few mods that really wake these baby's up too:
The Op Amp Mod
We change out the op amps inside this unit to faster, higher slew rate, and higher Bandwidth op amps.
This really changes the sonic characteristics of the unit.
It smooths out the Bass and makes it much more defined.
It takes the harshness out of the mids.
It makes the highs clearer and more brilliant.
Sometimes the circuit paths need to be checked with an oscilloscope to make sure the op amps are not oscillating.
If they are, then the power supply rails need to have some bypass caps installed.
The Tube Mod
The early units came with 7025 tubes.
The newer versions came with the Philips Jan 5751.
We change them out to either the GE JAN 5751 Grey Plates
or the RCA 5751 Command Series Black Plates (VERY Expensive!).
This makes the unit have so many more Harmonix on the low frequencies its unreal. It gives the mix so much more life.
It also reduces the overall tube gain about 20%.
This prevents microphonics and also helps with the gain structure with the following equipment.
The 'Verooooong' Mod
Depending on if it is the newer version or older version, there are some power supply mods that need to be done to it as well.
We call it the 'Verooooong' Mod.
The early models of the RP533 can be identified by the 'Ratio" control markings. The are 100 to 500 MS (milliseconds).
The newer versions have the markings .1 to 2 S (seconds).
So far the early models had a badly designed voltage regulator circuit in it for the High Voltage.
When you would turn the unit on, or if there was a voltage sag (like an A/C compressor engaging), there would be a loud 'Verooooong' sound in the mix.
We modded these units with the same power supply regulator circuit that Bellari was using in there RP-583 Compressor units.
Bellari also started to do this mod in the newer 533 units.
Bling Bling Switch Mod
All the Bellari units come from the factory with switches that are unsealed and have tin plated contacts.
These were unfortunately placed in the Audio Path.
Over time these switches get oxide on the contacts making them very noisy, scratchy, and intermittent, .
They get so bad , that they become useless...and there is no way to clean them.
After allot of research, We found a direct replacement for these switches.
The replacements have Gold Plated Contacts and are Sealed.
They are a little expensive, but when you place a switch in the Audio Path, it has to be of very high quality.
Capacitor Mod
One thing that We have noticed on the early units, is that the electrolytic caps they used were not that good of grade.
We have had several go out on us, usually in the Power Supply.
We had a 10uf cap on the -15V DC rail that failed causing a 1Mc oscillation on the Negative power rail that was being sent to the op amps and the tubes.
Of course you couldn't here this oscillation, but you could see it on the scope.
Once it was fixed, the audio was soooo much cleaner.
We go ahead and change all the caps on the early units with new Panasonic FC type capacitors (except the High Voltage Caps, We use a different type there).
But even without these extra mods.....this unit is fabulous!
Take Care,
Truly, these things are awesome.
There are a few mods that really wake these baby's up too:
The Op Amp Mod
We change out the op amps inside this unit to faster, higher slew rate, and higher Bandwidth op amps.
This really changes the sonic characteristics of the unit.
It smooths out the Bass and makes it much more defined.
It takes the harshness out of the mids.
It makes the highs clearer and more brilliant.
Sometimes the circuit paths need to be checked with an oscilloscope to make sure the op amps are not oscillating.
If they are, then the power supply rails need to have some bypass caps installed.
The Tube Mod
The early units came with 7025 tubes.
The newer versions came with the Philips Jan 5751.
We change them out to either the GE JAN 5751 Grey Plates
or the RCA 5751 Command Series Black Plates (VERY Expensive!).
This makes the unit have so many more Harmonix on the low frequencies its unreal. It gives the mix so much more life.
It also reduces the overall tube gain about 20%.
This prevents microphonics and also helps with the gain structure with the following equipment.
The 'Verooooong' Mod
Depending on if it is the newer version or older version, there are some power supply mods that need to be done to it as well.
We call it the 'Verooooong' Mod.
The early models of the RP533 can be identified by the 'Ratio" control markings. The are 100 to 500 MS (milliseconds).
The newer versions have the markings .1 to 2 S (seconds).
So far the early models had a badly designed voltage regulator circuit in it for the High Voltage.
When you would turn the unit on, or if there was a voltage sag (like an A/C compressor engaging), there would be a loud 'Verooooong' sound in the mix.
We modded these units with the same power supply regulator circuit that Bellari was using in there RP-583 Compressor units.
Bellari also started to do this mod in the newer 533 units.
Bling Bling Switch Mod
All the Bellari units come from the factory with switches that are unsealed and have tin plated contacts.
These were unfortunately placed in the Audio Path.
Over time these switches get oxide on the contacts making them very noisy, scratchy, and intermittent, .
They get so bad , that they become useless...and there is no way to clean them.
After allot of research, We found a direct replacement for these switches.
The replacements have Gold Plated Contacts and are Sealed.
They are a little expensive, but when you place a switch in the Audio Path, it has to be of very high quality.
Capacitor Mod
One thing that We have noticed on the early units, is that the electrolytic caps they used were not that good of grade.
We have had several go out on us, usually in the Power Supply.
We had a 10uf cap on the -15V DC rail that failed causing a 1Mc oscillation on the Negative power rail that was being sent to the op amps and the tubes.
Of course you couldn't here this oscillation, but you could see it on the scope.
Once it was fixed, the audio was soooo much cleaner.
We go ahead and change all the caps on the early units with new Panasonic FC type capacitors (except the High Voltage Caps, We use a different type there).
But even without these extra mods.....this unit is fabulous!
Take Care,
Last edited by Voodoo Guru on Fri Sep 18, 2009 2:49 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Voodoo Guru
From Deep in the IDD of the Sub-Harmonix Realm
From Deep in the IDD of the Sub-Harmonix Realm
Re: Howdy!!
Thank you very much for the explanation. It is absolutely a great information.
I will rearrange the gear and see how much improvement I get.
Again, thanks 'guru'
I will make a records and pics for the voodo site
I will rearrange the gear and see how much improvement I get.
Again, thanks 'guru'
I will make a records and pics for the voodo site